Start with the room, not the product
The right floor depends on moisture, traffic, noise rules and how long you plan to own the home. A basement in Eastchester and a second-floor bedroom in Scarsdale should not get the same product just because one truckload is cheaper.
Where hardwood wins
Solid and engineered hardwood still carry the most weight with buyers and appraisers, especially on main living floors of pre-war and colonial homes. It can be sanded and refinished several times, so a good hardwood floor is a 40-year asset rather than a 12-year one.
- Main-floor living rooms, dining rooms, hallways and bedrooms
- Homes where matching existing original hardwood matters
- Long-term ownership where refinishing beats replacing
Where LVP wins
Luxury vinyl plank is waterproof, dimensionally stable, quieter underfoot with the right underlayment, and dramatically more forgiving with pets, kids and rental tenants. It also handles below-grade installs that would destroy wood.
- Basements and any slab-on-grade installation
- Kitchens, mudrooms, laundry rooms and full baths
- Rental units and turnovers where durability and cost per year matter most
- Co-op and condo apartments with sound-rating requirements
The part that decides your outcome: the subfloor
Neither product forgives a bad subfloor. Floating LVP over an uneven slab will telegraph every dip and eventually open at the seams. Nailing hardwood over squeaky, springy subfloor guarantees you will still hear that squeak through the new floor. We check for level, moisture and fastening before we quote materials — a floor install without subfloor prep in the scope is not a real estimate.
A practical mixed approach
Most of our clients end up with hardwood on the main living level, LVP in wet rooms and basements, and tile in bathrooms. Transitions between them are handled with matching reducers and thresholds so the change reads as intentional design rather than a compromise.
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